Anodized Trim Pieces - Recolouring

I recently painted the drivers side F & R widow frames because the black had worn off on my '79. With some very careful masking and some quality spray paint, it can easily be made to look like new. I did several light coats, spraying in the garage and rolling it outside to bake in the sun in between coats. I'm about the worst painter in the world and it 's still hard to tell it's not original. As far as the durability, I park the car outside here in upstate NY(w/out a cover) and after 6 mo it still looks great.

Frank Sanford   fsanford@frontiernet.net

'79 911SC
'71 914

Most of the window trimming on my car has faded from black to a silvery/pewter tone.  Apparently the factory finish on the these parts was some type of anodizing that eventually fades off.  The PO of my car painted the rear lid badge with a special matte black paint called "trim paint" that one gets at an automotive paints store.  The result is pretty good, but to do the window frames is going to require a lot of prepping/masking.  I have not done this yet.
 <ed>   EDUARDO_HO@HP-Vancouver-om10.om.hp.com
79' SC (with quasi-chrome window trim)


Antenna - Replacement

All right no laughter, but I have replaced both antenna's on my '84
targa and my '84 633csi....from Kmart...$34.00 , that's right for a
power antenna. Wouldn't even begin to think of one from P-dealer or any of the mail order guys. I can by 5 Kmart's for one of those $$$$ ones.
The bmw one has 100,000 miles on it ( the antenna).
" attention Kmart shoppers now featured in our automotive dept., power antennas for your german cars...."

Art Bray     abray@inreach.com
'84 targa
'84 633csi


Alternator - Removal

Your tool kit should have a spanner to hold the alternator pulley tight, along with another to use to loosen the big nut in the middle of the pulley.  If not, you can purchase both from a catalog house.  This gets your fan belt off.  Note the position of the spacer washers on both sides of the half of the pulley half which comes off.  You use these to adjust belt tension, and always need to keep the ones you took off the inside on the outside so you don't run out of threads for the big nut to grab. 

Having accomplished this, disconnect your battery - there is unswitched battery plus going to the alternator at all times via a connection on the starter motor.

Now start taking loose the various bolts which hold the fiberglass engine shroud onto the top rear of the engine - some attach to the fan housing, and others on down on both sides.  I like to remove the left rear cover plate (the sheet metal or plastic plate behind and above the distributor also, as it allows you to reach in behind the alternator.  You do these things because you are going to have to take out the whole fan housing, to which the alternator is attached.  So everything should come off of the fan housing.  The coil, for instance, comes off.

To take out the fan housing first remove the bolt (usually an Allen type 8mm bolt) which squeezes the fan housing strap against itself.  Now pull the fiberglass fan shrouding up enough so you can start removing the fan housing.  The bottom of the fan housing rests on a short peg, which centers it and locates it, so it has to come out over this.  Looking in you will see that to get the assembly all the way out you will have to disconnect some wires.  Most alternators have a ground strap which is attached to one of the engine case peripheral studs.  Reaching in, remove the nut on that stud bolt to free the connector.  Also, there are some wires coming out of the back of the alternator.  I think some later alternators may have just a three or so prong connector to allow this (hurray if they do), but on earlier cars I found I needed to disconnect the plastic air ducting housing which attaches to the backside of the fan housing in order to be able to get at the nuts for the bolt on connections for some of these wires, which areplaced on the backside of the alternator and are not the easiest thing to get at.

If you don't have a simple connector, make a diagram so you will know which wire goes where.   Take the whole assembly out.   My recollection is that the same nuts which hold the plastic cover on serve as most of the nuts which hold the alternator onto the fan housing.  However, you could take it as is into your auto-electric shop if that's the route you are going to go. If you are just swapping in a rebuilt unit, you will need to take off the fan so you can get the alternator itself off of the housing.  While using a
chatter gun against the shaft while pulling on the fan with the fingers usually works, if you don't have this air tool people have suggested you can tap on the rear of the fan itself with a wooden dowel from the backside once you have the housing out.  Don't tap on the blades - tap on the stronger cylindrical center part.  Keep track of the Woodruf key which keeps the fan in place on the alternator shaft.

Assembly pretty much reverse of removal.  No real magic in any of this. 

Walt Fricke

and some additional information......

I am in the process of getting my alternator rebuilt and thought the following might be useful for your site. I found Walt Fricke's description slightly misleading (unusual- he's normally very clear) as I interpreted his description of removing the fibreglass engine shroud as implying that the whole top air duct needed to come off (which would require removing most of the intake plumbing).

 To remove the alternator, fan and fan shroud from a 911SC (mine's a 1980 Euro) it's only necessary to remove the belts, the coil-plate (with it's associated bracketry) and the heater pipe over the fan in order to get access. Removing either of the cover plates helps quite a bit, but it can probably be done without (left is by the distributor, as
Walt indicates, the right one is under the airconditioning pump: remove whichever looks easier in your car, I went for the right one as I was also stripping the aircon parts and didn't want to mess with the ignition wiring).

With these out of the way you can undo the shroud retaining strap and pull the alternator/fan/shroud forward to get access to the ducting behind it. Access is tricky because the ducting has sheetmetal strips which route the air to the cylinders and prevent rotation of the alternator but you should be able to remove the six 8mm nuts that hold this assembly to the alternator and thus gain access to the connections on the alternator that are inside it. With these removed the alt/fan/shroud will come off
the car for you to tackle the problem.

At a diagnosis level, when my alternator failed it was still producing some output, but not enough to charge the battery. Symptoms of the imminent demise of the electrical system were:

 (1) Red light on (mine always was, so it didn't help)
 (2) High idle (1900rpm cf 950)
 (3) Slow operation of wipers and windows
 (4) Jumping tach
 (5) tach steady at 6700rpm
 (6) tach steady at 1000rpm
 (7) hesitation under acceleration
 (8) hesitation at part throttle
 (9) irregular idle

 These are in order- with a newish battery I managed about 90 miles between (1) and (9), 20 with headlights, 60 with sidelights, including two starts from cold. The car wouldn't restart immediately after (9) but after sitting for a day it would start and run.

 I've sent my alternator off for a rebuild, with fan and housing attached, as there seems to be a shortage of replacements at the moment.

 Hope this is useful.

William Warburton


Air Conditioning - Upgrade from York to Sanden compressor

Here are the details from my recent conversion/upgrade of the AC system in my 80 SC. I replaced the dead York compressor w/ a new Sanden compressor. The advice I received was unanimous on choice of refrigerant  - stay w/ R12 rather than going w/ R134 or FRIGC. The reasons were that neither replacement cooled as well as R12 in an older system. Late R12 systems may take more kindly to R134 because of design changes. FRIGC was not recommended because it supposedly does not cool as well as R12 and is not mixable w/ R12, attacks seals in the system more aggressively and is not widely available. FRIGC is not widely available because most shops don't have the special equipment to service it & is thought to be flammable by a lot of shops (I have the impression this isn't really true, though). The shop where I took my car advised using R12 because it works better, is still available and should be for several more years by which time they felt it was likely that an effective, true "drop-in" replacement would be available. While you can switch to R134 for not much more than I spent for updating an R12 system, the consensus is that it simply won't cool as well. A possible exception to this could be on newer cars, such as later Carreras. I don't know how those systems differ, but they apparently have more cooling capacity and a somewhat different system design. The above are the opinions of people in the business, not my own.

My car is an 80 SC Targa w/ factory air. It had the lg. York compressor and two condensers, one on the engine decklid, one behind the front air dam. The York finally succumbed to seal failure, but had never been that effective, and it was noisy & rough in operation, drawing a lot of engine power. A rebuild was not an option, due to lack of available parts.

I ordered a Sanden conversion kit from Griffith's Technical (advertise in Excellence) and can recommend them highly from my experience. Charles Griffith is knowledgeable, personable & professional. The kit truly is a "bolt-in" operation w/o hassles. He also advised replacing the receiver/dryer, which is good advice, as I confirmed w/ others in the business. Think of the receiver/dryer as a filter for water, debris, etc. in the system. The compressor kit was $349 and the rec/dryer, which is Porsche OE was $110. BTW, the Sanden is R134-compatible but you'll need the appropriate fittings.

My car had newer hoses already, so I didn't replace them. If yours are older, replace them now. The old ones had small holes standard that leaked refrigerant, which you *don't* want now.

OK, now for the details. This applies to my 80 SC, so your car may differ. Make sure your system is empty of refrigerant. Any AC shop can recover your refrigerant if the system is not empty. You might want to remove or at least loosen the hose fittings on the top of the compressor first before removing the compressor (leverage). Check sizes to make sure you have the right sized wrench.

To remove your old compressor, just loosen the adjusting nut. It's a 13mm nut on a bolt to the left of the compressor mount, between the mount and the engine fan housing. There are two bolts securing the mount to the car, both 13 mm. Use a socket for best results. One is one the front, the other on the top, right rear. Remove both. Now the entire compressor mount should move. Remove the AC belt and disconnect the power wire from the compressor. Put the wire out of the way - if it gets caught under the compressor, it may short (learned that from a hurried wrench who did that to mine - my first compressor R & R experience). Take off the hose fittings from the compressor, but *first* make sure you note which hose goes where on the compressor. The discharge side goes to the condensor, suction side from the evaporator.

Now remove your compressor with mounting plate(s) from the car. Underneath the compressor is a mounting plate, maybe two. Mine had two - one plate mounting to the car, with the other between the compressor and the main plate. Remove it from the old compressor. Bolt this mounting plate to your new kit's mounting plate with the four bolts included in the kit. Now mount this combined assembly to the main mounting plate that attaches to the car. Don't tighten the bolts yet, just enough to hold it in place.

Now you're ready to attach the compressor to the plates. Tip: run the bolts from the inside out, i.e., bolt head underneath the compressor, nuts on the outside, to facilitate easier removal in the future. Otherwise, you may have a clearance problem removing bolts in the future. Using a socket wrench on one side and a std. wrench on the other worked best for me.

Now the compressor is mounted to the car.  Attach your fittings to the compressor. Make sure you install o-rings between the fitting & compressor - these weren't in my kit, so check first. I only had to splice one line on my car. You should get a new barrier hose to attach to the rear condenser. Be careful here! Make sure you use a second wrench on the compressor nut to hold it still. This is a fragile, expensive part! Once loose, remove the hose from the clamp on the decklid hinge and replace w/ the new hose, reversing this procedure. You don't have to use killer torque here, just make sure it's good & snug but don't strain yourself - let the shop check for leaks & adjust if necessary.

Reinstall the belt over the pulley. It should be a perfect fit. Adjust tension (about 0.5 to 0.75 in freeplay, I believe) on the belt using the adjusting screw. Once adjusted, tighten the two bolts on the main mounting plate to secure.

DON'T CLOSE THAT LID!!!! Check for clearance between the compressor fittings and your rear condenser. If you encounter resistance, you don't have enough clearance. You could adjust your decklid, or just rotate the compressor 90 degrees to the right. It will work fine that way, I checked. Now you can close the lid.

Pop a beer! This part is done!

The receiver/dryer is easy. Step one is to clean this area thoroughly!!!

Dirt is our biggest enemy here and you're working in a wheel well. Pay particular attention to dirt around the hose ends and fittings. Again, loosen the fittings while the R/D is mounted to the car to take advantage of leverage. The area around top fitting is a bit short on work room, but it's manageable. Use two wrenches again. Do the same w/ the bottom fitting. Now unscrew the clamps holding the R/D to the car. Pull clamps all the way off - it's easier. Remove R/D from the car. Check hose fittings for more dirt and clean carefully. Check *inside* the fittings, too.

Attach the new R/D. I would get the clean fittings attached to the new R/D ASAP to reduce dirt contamination risks. Position the R/D and attach the screw clamps to the car. Now tighten your fittings on the R/D, again not overly tight.

You're done. This was really a pretty simple, straightforward job. I
didn't swear much at all. It took me about three hours total, working slowly & carefully. Just don't rush & try to think a bit ahead. I didn't need to replace other hoses since that had been done fairly recently by the PO, so others will have to help there.

The new system takes about 2.5 lbs of refrigerant and should be leak-tested. The Sanden is much smoother w/ much less power loss & causes very little rpm drop at idle. Temp drops are better than the York ever produced. The extra compressor capacity might offset some of the loss of cooling w/ an R134 conversion as well.

Here are the costs:
Sanden conversion kit w/ plates, hose: $349
Porsche OE rec/dryer: $110
Leak test: $60
2.5 lbs R-12: $90

Hope this helps. The hardware prices are from Griffith's. There are other suppliers out there, but I found Griffith's to be very helpful & they'll talk you through any problems you might have. Usual disclaimers here.

Oh, and yes, it does cool quite nicely. I think the airflow enhancement kit should finish the project quite nicely. Sorry for the length but a lot of people wanted the small details.

Greg Salchow