Dash Replacement - 911SC

Just replaced the dash on my 80 SC.  It was relatively simple.  You have to remove the glass.  Ther are some screws holding down the vinyl across the front (near the seal).  Get a 10 mm socket and some long extensions, along with a universal.  There are 5 bolts across the face of the dash, and 2 just behind the tach and above (from the top).  It took me about 4 hours start to finish.  Get some dash clips from Porsche before you re-install.

Jeff Baggett 


Distributor - Installing

If the distributor body has been removed, it must be aligned to the crankshaft with cylinder #1 at TDC (top-dead-center), while the rotor points to the spark plug wire for cylinder #1. This ensures that the cylinder is at the top of its stroke when the plug fires.

There are three timing marks (notches) on the crankshaft pulley, these indicate the TDC points for the three pairs of cylinders. There is also a notch on the fan assembly, this is the alignment point for the timing notches on the crankshaft pulley. There should  be a "Z1" mark next to notch that is for TDC of cylinders #1 and #4. On my car (87 Carrera), I couldn't see the "Z" markings on the pulley, but there is another way to tell which of the three markings is the Z1 point: there is another notch about five degrees before the Z1 notch.

The objective is to turn the crankshaft so that cylinder #1 is at TDC (the Z1 mark aligns with the notch on the fan assembly), then install the distributor so the rotor points to ignition wire #1. The Z1 mark on the crankshaft pully represents the TDC point for BOTH cylinders #1 and #4, so you need to make sure it points to cylinder #1. There are a few different ways to tell whether its pointing to cylinder #1 or #4.

- Trial and error. You can align it to Z1 and try starting it, if   it doesn't go then turn the crankshaft 360 degrees (clockwise)   and try again (after aligning the rotor to wire #1). This will   rotate it from #4 TDC to #1 TDC. This is the method I used. On   my first attempt it was pointing to #4 (no fire), so I turned   the cranshaft 360 degrees, adjusted the distributor so the   rotor pointed to cylinder #1, and it fired fine.

- Feel for air pressure. If you remove spark plug #1 and put your   hand over the hole, you'll feel pressure when the crankshaft turns to the compression cycle for cylinder #1.

- Use a pointer as a flag. If you remove spark plug #1 and stick   something (like a screwdriver) in the hole, it will push out when   cylinder #1 reaches TDC. But be sure there is room for the screwdriver to move freely!

Note: If you're unsure of the cylinder numbering, you'll find it on the labels in the engine tin. They are numbered as follows:
   3   6
   2   5
   1   4

You'll also find the firing order listed on the lables in the engine tin, but just in case it's 1, 6, 2, 4, 3, 5.

Okay, now there are several different ways to turn the crankshaft to align it to the Z1 point.

- Socket wrench on crankshaft pulley nut. If you can get a socket on the crankshaft pulley, you can turn it (clockwise) with a socket wrench. If it's difficult to turn, you can loosen all of the spark plugs to lower compression.

- Spacer tool on fan pulley. There is a tool in the porsche toolkit for turning the fan. You can crank the engine this way (clockwise), but you may need to put pressure on the fan belt so it doesn't slip. Once again, it's easier to turn if you loosen all of the spark plugs.

- Rocking the car. With the car in fifth gear, you can rock it until the pulley aligns to the Z1 point.

- Turning over the ignition. You can turn the ignition (with key) in short bursts until you get it close to the mark, then rock the car in fifth gear to get it exact. This is the method I used and it worked fine, even with just one person, as long as you have patience ;-)  

Once you have the crankshaft sitting at TDC for cylinder #1, you need to install the distributor body so the rotor points to the ignition wire for spark plug #1. You'll notice a small notch on the distributor that aligns to the ignition point for spark plug #1. Put the rotor on the distributor shaft and turn the shaft so the rotor points to (just before) the notch on the distributor body. You will probably have to try it a few times until you get the gears to match up properly. Now install the distributor cap and you should be up and running. If it doesn't fire, you may be aligned to TDC for #4 instead of #1. If so, try rotating the crankshaft 360 degrees, then readjust the distributor rotor to point to the notch for cylinder #1.

On the DME-based cars (1984-1989 carreras) there is no dynamic adjustment of the timing (ie with a timing light) required because it's done automatically by the DME computer. On earlier cars, you have to adjust the dynamic timing with a timing light after setting the static timing. I'm not sure how this is done, maybe someone else on the list can reply with the instructions on how to set the dynamic timing with a timing light, that would complete the detailed instructions on setting timing.

Doug <djsuds@ix.netcom.com>
87 Carrera Targa


Door Panels - Removing

How to remove 911 doorpanels....

1.Begin by taking off the pocket. There are 3 screws on the bottom edge of the door and 2 more at the left & right top of the pocket. There's also one inside the pocket, near the handle/bar. Now you can take off the pocket and you'll find the bottom part of the pannel hanging loose. Oh, BTW, the latch stays on the pannel, there's no need to remove it.

2. You've got good clearance to remove the door speakers now. Mine are attached with 4 screws, but this might vary.

3. Next step is to take off the top part of the panel. At the inside (where the door sits to the car) you'll find a plate with a single screw in it. Remove this and you'll have acces to 2 more. At the far end remove the little cap (carefull it's easily dammaged, cause its just soft plastic) underneath there is another screw. After removing it you'll have clearance to 2 screws that hold the 'bar' at the top. remove these too.

4. Now pull the lever that opens the door and remove the little rod, so you can pull the levver a little further (carefull though, it's not that strong). Behind it you'll find 2 allen bolds, remove these.Next take out the screw from the hinge at the far side of the pocket latch.

5. Last you'll have to remove the knop which (un)locks the door. There's a little plate on the knob which can be removed with a little screwdriver. Again be gentle, it's easily scratched or dented at the sides! Now you have acces to a screw. Take it out and you'll be able to remove the knob. Now just turn the disc behind it to get that off.

6. The panel should now just 'snap' off the door. There are 'snaps' at the left & right top. Remove carefully, not destroying the plastic snaps or cracking the cardboardish back of the pannel.

7. Before removing the wires from the electric window switches, maker sure you get a pen & paper and make a wiring diagram, or you'll be lost when putting it back together! Just pull each wire off the back off the switch -they pop straight off.

Well, this about covers it, and unless I forgot something, you should be home free...Good luck!

Jeroen - the Netherlands
'87 carrera coupe

There may be some minor differences in other year models, but this is how I removed the door panels on my 1983 911SC:

1.  Remove door lock button and window sill.  The sill is held by two screws, one on each end.  The rear screw is under a small plastic plug.
2.  Remove the rotary unlocking knob.  Pry the cover off the center of the knob and remove the phillips screw.
3.  Disconnect the main door latch.  This little linkage is under the door pull handle, and snaps into a small plastic coupling.
4.  Gently pry the window switch from the door panel (stiff putty knife works well--be careful not to bend the little metal bezel in the panel that the switch snaps into).  Disconnect the wires, after noting which wire connects to which terminal.
5.  Remove radio speaker grills.
6.  Remove door pockets.  There are three machine screws along the bottom edge of each pocket, one sheet-metal screw on each end, and one sheet-metal screw in the center under the pocket lid.  Also remove the small plastic door-pocket bracket near the front of the door.
7.  Remove the door pull handle.  These are held by four allen-head screws, two at the top and two inside holes near the bottom of the handle.
8.  Make sure any remaining screws/bolts holding the panel are removed. Then carefully pry the plastic retaining clips loose.  Again, a stiff putty knife or scraper works well.
9.  This is a good opportunity to inspect the inside of the door to make
sure the drain holes are clear, and that there is no rust.  Also a good time to lubricate all of the mechanical linkages in the door.

There is a much more detailed description of this procedure by Allen Caldwell in Volume IX of Up-Fixin, page 300.

Bob Tindel
83SC Guards Red


Deck Lid - Strut Replacement

Both "back" mounting points are held in by pins and a metal tab thing (hereafter: Metal Tab Thing) that holds the pin in place.  I don't know what Porsche would call these things, but they look like this:

 "A"          _  "B"
      \__||__/ \
     ___||____/  <--- Metal Tab Thing
           ||  <--- pin

In any case, The way I did this, was to take a pair of needle nose pliers, and reach way back in there, and grab "A". If you grab here only the tab that is furthest away from the head of the pin, you can bend it up (in this diagram) and then push the tab right (in this
diagram) off the pin. Be careful, because the pin won't really be held in at that point, and you don't want to drop it down in the engine area. I doubt you'd ever see it again.

Once you have the tab off, dive back in with the needle nose, and coax the pin out of it's hole.

Putting the pin back, through the new strut-end is a little trickier, but not impossible. The way I did it, was to put the pin part way in WITHOUT the strut in place, and then lay the end of the strut on top of the half inserted pin. Then SLOWLY work the pin out until the strut falls down into place. If you're lucky, it will stop falling so that the pin catches
the hole in the strut end. Then push the pin all the way through.

To reattach the Metal Tab Thing, grab it at "B" such that the plane of the pliers is perpendicular to the screen in this diagram. That should allow you to push it back onto the pin pretty easily.

Arlon Wilber