Oil - How to check level

Drive the car until the oil warms up to operating temperature (ten minutes or so).  Park it on a level surface and LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING.

Pop the bonnet, open the oil filler cap, and reach inside the neck of the filler for the dipstick.  Remove it, wipe it off, and carefully re-insert it fully.  Note that it doesn't just drop into the filler; there's a slot on the side of the filler neck into which the dipstick fits.

Remove it again and check the level of oil shown on the dipstick. It should read somewhere between the "Min" and "Max" marks.


=== Andrew Warren - fastfwd@ix.netcom.com


Oil - Dry sump system

The 911 uses a "dry-sump" system, as opposed to the "wet-sump" system used by most passenger cars.

In a dry-sump system, the oil at the bottom of the crankcase is picked up by a pump which sends it to an oil tank.  After being de-aerated (completely) and cooled (somewhat) in the tank, another pump sends oil from the tank to the engine.  After flowing through the engine, it ends up in the bottom of the crankcase again, and the cycle repeats.

When you measure the oil level on the dipstick, you're measuring the level IN THE TANK.  That's why you must measure the oil level while the engine's idling; if the engine isn't running, some oil will be in the crankcase, and your dipstick will erroneously read low.


=== Andrew Warren - fastfwd@ix.netcom.com

Oil - Drain plug torque

>what’s the correct torgue setting for replacimng the oil drain plugs on a 911?

The corret torque setting for the oil tanks drain plug and also the oil screen cover is 42 Nm or 31 ft-lb.

terry steer


Oil Pressure Switch - Replacement

A recent message discussed how to do a partial engine drop, for what seemed to be a leaking oil pressure switch.  I just replaced my oil pressure switch, and can attest to the fact that the engine does NOT need to be dropped in any manner. 

All that needs to be done is remove all the intake "stuff" north of the throttle body (might even be able to do this with the VAM in place), and you can just about get your head in there and see the switch ==> on my '86 911, the switch has a dark red cap with a single green wire attached to it.  A deep 24mm socket is required for removal - couple that to an extension and there's plenty of room to swing a breaker bar over the top of the intake manifold.

Brad Anesi  banesi@magicrx.com
'86 911 Coupe


Oil Usage - 993

>>My 98 993 has 2700 miles on it and has already used 2.5 quarts of oil.
>>Is this oil use normal?

993s will consume oil for approx the first 15K miles until the valves get properly seated. After that the oil consumption will dramatically drop to normal levels. My '95 993 did exactly the same thing. At first, I had the same concern.

The 993 owner's manual covers this issue in detail. If I remember, the manual indicated that the consumption might be around 1 quart per 1,000 miles. Based on your mileage, everything sounds about normal. Just be sure to check the oil level regularly during this break-in period, and be sure to do it with the engine running and up to normal operating temperature. Again, the owners manual describes how to check the oil correctly. Have a great time with the car!

Steve Artick     steve993@porschenet.com
'95 993


Oil Cooler - Upgrade for tuba style

IMHO, the best cooler for an SC is the '87 Carrera cooler, with the thermostat and fan.  I tried the Terbatrol and the 28-tube brass cooler, without much improvement.  If you get the Carrera cooler, I recommend that you have it ultrasonically cleaned
before installation.  The '87 Carrera fender brace allows you to
relocate the horns for proper clearance, so get it too. 

Also, you may wish to install a manual switch for the fan.  A rear window wiper switch in the stock position works well.  If you need more info, including a wiring diagram, send an SASE to 30822 Alta Mira Drive, Redlands, CA 92373.

Bob Tindel


Oil Cooler - Removing internal

Occasionally it may be necessary to remove an internal 911 oil cooler while the motor is still in the car.  Whether to replace the seals, or to replace a damaged cooler, removing and replacing the cooler does not require the removal of the motor from the car.  Before deciding to replace the cooler or replace the motor to cooler seals, determine that this in fact the source of your
First make sure that the sender unit on top (top rear when looking into the engine compartment) is not leaking.  Second, get a good light and get under the car (with car on jack stands).  Shine the light around the oil cooler.  If the cooler leaks when the car runs, it will continue to leak for a while after you shut the car off.  Look into the center of the cooler. If oil is coming from there, chances are it is a bad cooler.  If oil is coming from where the cooler and the motor mate, you MAY have bad seals, a bad
cooler, or another source of oil (remember, oil creeps and wanders around, often times ending up quite a distance from the original source).  If the oil is seeping from where the cooler and the motor mate, you may consider checking the torque of the nuts before removing  the cooler.

It has been a while since I have changed an oil cooler on a motor still in a 911, so the following are the steps as I remember them:

1) Jack up rear of car and secure properly (chocks, jack stands)

2) Drain oil

3) Remove right (passenger) rear wheel (it is no necessary to remove the ½ shaft)

4) Depending upon your setup, you may want to remove your heat exchanger or header (right side, 4-6 only)

5) Remove sheet metal separating upper and lower rockers and remove the bolts connecting the rear sheet metal to the oil cooler

6) Disconnect the tank to cooler oil line (be prepared for more oil to run from the line and/or cooler)

7) Although it is not necessary, you may want to remove the motor to tank line at this point because it will give more room to pull the cooler off and to re-install one later

8) Depending on what year motor you have, and whether there have been any updates to the shroud, this step could be easy or a pain.  Part of the fan/cooling shroud on the top of the motor wraps over the oil cooler. This of course forces air through the cooler, cooling the oil.  On early cars (up to SCs I think), the shroud included a separate "plastic" tunnels that was riveted to the fiberglass shroud.  The tunnel included a wrap around end cap for the oil cooler.  On later cars, while the shroud still included the
tunnel, the end cap that fit over the cooler was not an integral part of the tunnel.  If you have a later car or one that has been updated, simply remove the end cap with a 10mm socket (there will be at least a couple holding the cap to the cooler and at least a couple bolts holding the cap to the shroud and/or motor.  Once you have removed the cap, simply use a 13mm socket and extension to remove the two upper nuts holding the oil cooler in place.

On earlier motors that do not have an updated shroud, infinite patience or a little ingenuity is required.  Remove all the bolts holding the shroud in place in the area on the motor around the cooler.  While the integral end cap is fairly rigid, you still may be able to use an extension with universal joints to reach under the cap/shroud with a 13mm socket to remove the two upper nuts holding the cooler in place.  If you are finding it too difficult to snake the socket under the shroud (there is also a baffle under there too), you may consider buying a new motor with the updated cooler cap. Failing the new motor option try drilling out the rivets that are holding the tunnel in place on the shroud around the cooler (these can be re-riveted later, or screwed in place).  Once you have the tunnel more flexible, it should allow plenty of room to get up under the cap and remove the two upper nuts holding the oil cooler in place  While it is not absolutely necessary to remove the rivets from the shroud, it will assist in removal of the cooler, it will assist in re-installation of the cooler, and will certainly save the
neighbor's ears from what undoubtedly will be an education in vulgarity.

9) Once the two top nuts are removed, remove the bottom nuts from the cooler. If all the sheet metal screws and shroud bolts are removed, at this point the cooler should essentially fall into your hands (along with a ½ of quart or so of oil all over your lap!).  If the shroud end cap is in place still, you may have to fidget with the beast to get it clear of the studs and shroud (and possibly header);

10)  To quote a phrase used too often in the  factory manual, "installation is the reverse of removal!"  Actually, with this project, reversing the removal process might finish it for you, with a few additional points noted. When re- installing the cooler, use either a new or tested one that has been cleaned. I would recommend at least testing the one removed unless it is OBVIOUS that the cooler is trash (hopefully in the not too distant future I will be fabricating an affordable oil cooler tester, but that is another story).  Use
a generous amount of Dow 111 (or grease) on the new seals to keep them in place (as well as provide proper sealing) as you re-seat the cooler. Make sure you use new spring washers and torque the nuts to the proper specification.  Re-connect all sheet metal and shroud bolts (the shroud and sheet metal are critical in providing proper cooling).  If you have drilled out any rivets, re-rivet or screw the tunnel back in place.  Obviously, after putting everything back together and filling up the oil, check for leaks.

Hope this helps.  If anyone has any questions or comments, let me know.

Steven M. Stomski


Oil Return Tubes - Replacement

I've recently replaced the original oil return tubes in my '87 3.2 with a set of the expandable type from Automotion.  The o-rings in my old ones started to leak, forcing the repair.  If they don't leak, they don't need to be replaced.

The job was pretty easy.  To get the old tube out, just crush it with a pair of pliers and twist.  You have to destroy it pretty completely to get it out.  Sawing it in half might seem like an alternative, but I didn't want to risk metal shavings getting into my engine.  It is pretty thin wall tubing, so cutting it with a set of tin snips might work.

The new tubes telescope, with an o-ring seal in at the telescoping joint and one at each end.  In theory, you assemble the o-rings, collapse the tube, insert one end into the engine or head, and then expand the tube and insert the other end.  In practice, the new o-rings are very tight in the engine and head, so "slipping them into place" is easier said than done.  There is a recommended lubricant, but I was successful using only motor oil, and mine haven't leaked a drop.  I did scratch the new tubes up a bit while working them into place with pliers.

According to Automotion, the tubes must be installed in a certain direction (larger tube goes in crankcase?), and they include this in their brief instruction sheet.

There was a bad batch of tubes which were not tight enough.  Very easy to install, but leaked.  Automotion replaced one of mine with apologies.  Don't think it was their fault, since others reported getting bad tubes from other parts houses.

Sure is nice to have a clean garage floor again!


- Brad
PCA/GGR #516


Oil Cooler - Fan Wiring

To wire a thermostatically-controlled oil cooler fan, such as the '87 and later Carrera on an earlier car, you will need a relay socket (about $10 from a dismantler), a relay, and a rear wiper switch (optional).

1.  Examine the relay and socket to determine which relay pin sockets connect to which terminal on the relay.

2.  Wire terminal 30 of the relay socket to the bottom of fuse 13 (counting from the front of the car, in this case an SC.  This fuse is a 25-amp, for the sunroof, rear wiper, and mirrors.)  Use heavier gauge wire, such as 10 gauge.

3.  Wire terminal 87 to the fan motor positive terminal, using 10 gauge wire.

4.  Wire terminal 86 to the bottom of fuse 14, using 16 gauge wire (16 amp fuse, wiper/washer and cigarette lighter.

5.  Wire terminal 85 to the thermostat, using 16 gauge wire (if you want to include a manual switch, also run a 16 gauge wire from terminal 85 to one terminal of a switch, and connect the other switch terminal to ground.  A rear wiper switch works well for this, and can be located in the stock position.  On many cars, the hole is already cut in the metal dash.  You can locate it by pressing on the dash along the left of the steering wheel below the instruments.  Cut out the vinyl with a razor knife, and the switch snaps
into place.)

6.  Wire the fan motor ground terminal to ground.

Before buttoning everything back up, confirm that the fan works properly and that it blows in the desired direction.  It should activate when the ignition is on and the manual switch is closed, or the thermostat should turn it on at about 248F.

This is also a good time to ensure that there are no shorts from incorrect wiring or faulty circuits.  Make sure that all the doors are closed, and all lights are off, including the boot light.  Disconnect the battery ground cable, and connect a test lamp between the ground cable and ground.  If it stays lighted, you have a current draw.  Remove one fuse at a time until the test lamp goes out, and you have found the bad circuit.

Bob Tindel
83SC Guards Red